Making The Belt Loop
You're going to want to put a belt loop (Pic. #L-01) on the belt
about five or six rows from where you cast onto the buckle... this
retains the tongue if you're wearing pants with only a few loops
on them and also is just a nice detail.

With a lot of practice you can actually create the loop from the
fabric of the belt itself, but that's a "Master Class" project and
here we'll deal with the easiest of the loops to put on.

Usually, ten or eleven knots in a row of whatever material you
may be using for the belt will give ample clearance for a second
thickness of belt to slip inside it easily.  I prefer to have too large
a loop as opposed to one which you have to fight with to get the
tongue into it.   (Don't go there!)  In the #24 size line used in
these belts, I like to start by using two and four toothpick spacers
to create a space for the belt to go through and secure the loop to
the belt.  See the following:
L-01
Incidentally, you're not going crazy: I am using a sample where a loop was already added to demonstrate this.
This one little section took three days, five separate constructions and over 200 fotos to finally get some semblance of usable pics...
by the time I gave it "one last try", I wasn't about to start another one!  If this hadn't worked there'd be no loop section.
(Pic. #L-02) Starting the loop itself,  allow about four inches of
line and put an overhand knot in all four lines,  then put one
squareknot about an inch from the overhand and pull it up
snug but not real tight... you'll need to untie this one later on.  
Use a four-toothpick spacer and put it on as shown
L-02
Bring both working lines outboard the spacer as shown
(Pic. #L-03)  and make one squareknot behind it,  
bringing this knot up TIGHT to the back of the spacer.  
Move the spacer and do another of these, then use a
two-toothpick spacer and make one more squareknot.  
These should all (except the first) be nice and tight.
L-03
Now do a row of ten or eleven knots, one right on
the other, all tight, then use the two-toothpick
spacer, knot, the four-toothpick spacer twice and
you'll basically have a "mirror image" of the other
end. (Pic. #L-04)
Again,  the last knot should be snug but not tight.
L-04
(Pic. #L-05)  Check for width across the belt... you
should have two extra knots (or three in really small
material) projecting beyond the edge of the belt to
give it an "arch" when it's completed.
L-05
Time for some fun.  Turn the entire belt over
(Pic. #L-06) so that you're now working on the BACK of the belt.  
You'll be taking the standing or filler pairs and passing them
through the loops formed by the four-toothpick spacers.  The
loop formed by the two-toothpick spacer will act as a "hinge" to
allow the loop to fold easily.
(Note the discolouration at the completed loop due to use of
methacrylate?  Since this is on the back of the belt, it's fairly
immaterial to the appearance of the completed belt. (As me
Granny used to say, "T'will never be noticed from a galloping
horse!")
L-06
(Pic. #L-07)  This shews one filler pair as it comes through
the top of the spacer loop.  Cross the next two lines and then
tuck it through so that it comes out just like it went in.  Do
this with all four sets of fillers in all four spacer loops.
TIP: Decapitate a toothpick and then cut a shallow
notch in the (now flat) end, sort of a very shallow
"VEE".... use this to 'poke' lines through tight spaces.
L-07
Once you've gotten all four sets of fillers threaded through
the spacer loops,  you'll make a squareknot below each one
to continue the belt fabric and lock in the belt loop.

(Pic. #L-08) REMEMBER that if you're doing the pattern I
shewed previously, to continue it you must now do your
initial bights in the OPPOSITE directions so that when you
turn the belt over the pattern continues.  On the working
side you'd pass the bight to the outboard, but here you'll pass
the bights INBOARD.  

Bring your knots up snug but do not over tighten... check to
see you have a fairly straight line of knots when you've done
all four.  While this will be hidden by the tongue of the belt,  
a neat job is a neat job, after all.  (nearly done, now.)
L-08
OK  Now that you've gotten the knots snugged up and you're
ready to go on with the belt,  you just have that great lot of
line to deal with.  Either untie the squareknot in the loop
end or just cut the line short as shown. (Pic. #L-09)

TIP: before you trim off the excess, put a drop of glue on the
back of the belt close to where you'll be cutting to hold the
ends in place.

TRIM off these lines C A R E F U L L Y, so as not to cut
anything else.
L-09
The real goal here is to cut the lines so that they almost
meet each other, just as though they were a continuous line.  
I get this about one-in-three but usually I have a gap... no
disaster, that's why God made methacrylate.   (Pic. #L-10) Put
your glue on the lines where they run across the belt and use
just enough to secure these lines to the lines they cross...
don't go crazy with the "Crazy Glue" and you'll probably not
even see the glue discolouration on the "working" side of
the belt.

If you wind up with sharp points from the glue, you can take
an emery-board
(DON'T steal your wife or girlfriend's nail
board.... buy one for yourself unless you want to sing soprano!)

and smooth off the sharper points and rough surfaces.  Works
like a dream, but don't overdo it.
L-10
All trimmed and glued and ready for flipping over (Pic.
#L-11) so you can now put that amazing pattern into the belt
and astound your friends and neighbours with your digital
dexterity and nautical niceties.
L-11
(WORK HAS BEEN RETURNED TO THE
CORRECT SIDE)

(Pic. #l-12)  Belt loop all finished and ready to go.

Continue with the belt.

NOTE that you should use THIS point for working out the
spacing on your belt pattern.
L-12
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