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However:  a plain pattern of knots, while useful, is B O R I N G, so here's how to put diamonds and
crosses into the belt for more interest.  Note that while these are decorative they are also integral to
the strength of the belt.

For the diamond shape, I recommend you initially used a "filled" diamond as it is much easier to hold a shape by
making squareknots inside the diamond.  After a while you'll want to try an "Open" Diamond similar to the treatment
of the "X" in subsequent fotos.
(Pic. #18)  To start the diamond,  knot four
across, then knot three, but DON'T knot the
center set.  Then pick up the outer two sets
and knot them,  thus giving you an inverted
"VEE" shape of knots
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(Pic. #19)  This is a "corner spacer", used to start the diamond
and keep the lines from being over-pulled and thus pulling the
diamond out of shape.  Made of three toothpicks (square ones)
arranged as three points of a square, glued and lashed. (See
instructions below.)     Insert this at the point between the centre
pair with one line coming in each of the spaces between the
toothpicks (the windows).   This allows you to do the half-hitch
while retaining the spacing over the core line and giving the
correct placement at the apex for the first pair of hitches.  This is
important as the hitches going the opposite way will use this
tailing for their core line and thus if it is out of place, the entire
thing will be out of place and lopsided.  
19
..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... .....
A NOTE ON "HALF-HITCHING"
Basically you will be making a simple overhand hitch (half hitch)  around a "core" line and you'll note that each set of
two hitches forms a Clove hitch.
A very basic schematic of the hitch as it looks from the front of the
work.  From this little sketch you can see the parts of the
half-hitches:  two half-hitches around a core and the remainder of
the line from the hitches is the tailing.

The "lead" comes UNDER the core and around and over the top, then
goes behind the core ABOVE the lead and comes out underneath.  
When you do two of these in a row you wind up with a clove hitch
with the crossing part underneath the core and the turns showing in
the front of the work.
90 degree row of half
hitching
Row of Half hitches
CAPPING:  See how on the 90 degree row of half-hitching how the row on the LEFT "caps" the row on the right?  This
is caused by using the tailing from one set of hitches as the core of the 90 degree row and is a hallmark of Raoul
Graumont's  and P. C. Herwig's work,  finer than which it is hard to find.  Mr. Graumont was the author of several
books on knotting and ropehandling and Mr. Herwig was an author of pamphlets and books on squareknotting in the
'teens and '20's of the last century.  He also owned a large Chandlery in Brooklyn and manufactured cordage for fancy
rope work.

Capping your rows shows finesse and an appreciation of design (IMNSFHO). Besides, you're learning this from ME,  
and
"That's How I Say's It's Done, Tadpole!"
(Pic. #20)   Leave the three-point spacer in place for a while:
it'll prevent over-tightening as you go along.

NOTE:
Take care when picking up the lead to make the next set
of half-hitches as it's quite easy to miss one.  

Remember: TWO half hitches make ONE set and
you want ONE set per lead line.
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(Pic. #21)   Shews the first SET of hitches made onto the core.



NOTE: A
gain, take care when picking up the lead to make the
next set of half-hitches as it's quite easy to miss one and then
have a lot of ripping-out to do later on!
21
(Pic. #22)  After the first two sets of half hitches, take a
two-toothpick spacer and put it over the next lead; make the
set, then the next set, then move the spacer to the next
free
lead and so on... just gives a neater job.



You should be able to whip up a two and three point spacer from
the instructions above,  if not,  I can make some up for you for a
charge, but why buy when you can do (for) yourself?
22
(Pic. #23)    First row completed
Count as you go: each set of two hitches equals one
lead line.  In this belt example you have 16 lines total
for  8 leads per side,  but on the first row you will wind
up with SEVEN used leads and one unused lead.  The
reason for this is that using SEVEN leads allows you
to do another "cap" on the bottom rows and also, using
all the leads makes your diamond "stick-out" on the
sides; using only SEVEN of the EIGHT will have the
point of the diamond fall within the line of the edge of
the belt.  
(Dragging a series of points through the
belt-loops is annoying and creates unnecessary wear on
the fabric of the belt as well as pulling the half-hitches
apart.  Not pretty.)
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Pic. #24)  When you have done the seventh lead you will
have a row of fourteen turns... now go back and repeat
this process from the apex, but take care to take the
TAILING from SET ONE  and use it as the core for the
half-hitching ( see sketches for 90 degree half
hitching).  Leave the 3-point spacer in there still and use
the 2-point spacer as described on every other free lead
until you have used SEVEN leads.
24
(Pic. #25) Shews the top of the diamond completed and
also shows (toothpick) the "capping" described above.
25
"Bee Yee therefore of Goode Cheere, for thy Travaille
hath come Nigh unto an Ende and soone shalt Thou bee released."
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